Sling length for anchor reddit. I'm looking for a sling bag that has strap attachments similar to the CT5 sling by Chuyen Tactical or the Pioneer 8/12 by North St Bags. I think I use I use a double length sling and one locker for my PAS (it also incorporates my Belay device to extend the rappel and for redundancy at the anchor. I only bring double length slings if I know a pitch is going to be particularly difficult to manage rope drag on. Always thought 7mm was standard. How do you set up the right This is the anchor at the top of one of my last climbs. The sewn label and ease of unraveling an alpine draw is worth the premium price imo. 4 lockers, (2 in the hard points for contraversial harness setup) 1 alpine draw on a 240cm sling, 3 prussiks, (2 5mm and 1 6 or 7mm) 2 nonlockers, 1 or 2 pulleys, 1 5ft untied runner, 1 12 foot If the daisy chain is clipped in to the anchor incorrectly it can fail and pull through the stitching which would be a dynamic load on it. With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a It's much harder to escape the belay. You can use a quick draw attached to I prefer a 7mm cordelette if I am equalizing 3 pieces of gear. It turned out alright, but there's some issues I'd like to correct on the next model. Now you’re completely on top of each other. When multi-pitch climbing you should be aware that most professionals actually recommend using a I've seen a number of cool Balearic Paracord slings across the internet, so I gave it a shot myself. 248K subscribers in the tacticalgear community. Then on the other bolt, put a locker on and clove Been using a 7mm cordalette for 10+ years. For cleaning sport/fixed anchors or staging single or multi-pitch raps I clip into the anchor In general you will find the 60cm and 120cm slings to be the most common and widely used lengths. Seems like those would Multipitch I always clove hitch the rope. in the field i'll fall back to the sewn sling for that. total cost for the locker and the sling I was thinking 11kn sling on multip. I don't know if it matters in this situation, top rope doesn't exactly generate high forces. The 60s are great for “alpine quickdraws” and for extended gear placements that have wandered down a crack or off center from the climb. . They are both well secure, but I was Anchor yourself to a tree or crack with a long sling or length of rope before approaching the cliff edge to set up a toprope. Move to edge and tie a BFK or two Fig 8 loops, When I made mine I saw a post on a slinging forum saying the sling should be (when folded in half, ready to use) the length of the users arm. This is just like setting a two bolt anchor except with your harness at the master point. Mainly, an anchor will have a Girth hitching a sling that’s been sewn or knotted into a loop around a tree is fine. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. What’s a Personal Anchor System? A personal anchor system (PAS), sometimes called a lanyard or tether, is a You may have noticed that choosing a sling requires a certain level of climbing know-how. For multipitch rappelling, I use double shoulder length nylon sling (it canbe spectra or dyneema if managed appropriately) with an overhand on a bite tied at slightly less than half way. A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for equalizing three points of protection, orslinging Climbing Slings Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. In some situations trying to clean an anchor and retie in with only a quickdraw's length between you and the anchor would be a total pain in the ass. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners The terrain and anchor bolting traditions at the places you want to climb is important to consider when trying to set up top ropes on things. The only time I would take cordelette is if My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. I’m coming from the thought process of describing sling length as single (60), double (120), and quad (240), which makes sense in my head. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of I tie an overhand in the middle of a sling so I can use the end of the sling as an anchor while I set up my rappel off the middle of the sling. Some people use a double length sling tied to a master point (my preferred method), some build their anchor out of the rope, some just go directly into the chains with their PAS and a sling. ). A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and Anchor sling length/rigging question? Hopefully gonna make it to REI tomorrow to get my primitive rig. In my opinion, it’s just more convenient to have The “quad” offers a strong, fast, redundant, simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. I currently use a tubular webbing sling (connected up with a water knot) as an anchor point on a nearby tree, and to that I use a hard locked figure 8 belay as an anchor with a second anchor Preferred sling length (folded measurement) Closed• total votes Under 20” 20”-32” 32” & Above Voting closed What’s everyone’s preferred sling? - Blue Force Vickers is awkward w/ Corvus rail My take is: I'm fine with dyneema knots at an anchor strength-wise. Anchor and formsome reason bith of the climbers take a fall on anchor skenario. If the difference in length is larger than the amount that You're attaching your double length sling via both of your hard points using a girth hitch and then attaching that to one bolt at the anchors. One sling is around a root of a gorse bush, and the other is around a large rock in the ground. That's how I made Say I get to the chains of a sport route and find a comfortable stance to set my rappel, but the only soft gear I have with me is a 120cm sling that is too long to use as an anchor. A 240cm or 480cm sling can be handy when equalising trad anchors that may have three or more pieces and Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). Girth hitched sling or PAS through i did tie a double-length loop of cord for use as a foot loop when ascending but I never rack it. nice Although double-length slings are most commonly used to extend pieces of protection while on lead to reduce rope drag, quadruple or even longer slings are sometimes used to Heading out to a new crag this weekend. Typically my PAS will be in use to attach me to the anchor as I set up, and then I'll want it free again at the next anchor, so I don't really want it Girth hitches reduce the strength of the sling while they are tied, just like all knots. Shock load would happen if one side of your sling broke. without a dynamic element in the system between A repeat to condense information from the threads I linked: Tie one end of the static line to 1st tree (I'd probably use a Bowline & stopper knot). Since I already have them on hand, they’re great for However, I find myself more and more bringing a quad length dynema sling for this purpose instead of cordellette tied into a quad because it's lighter and less bulky. In a pinch, you can always put two single length slings together. Nwslackline. I still carry a double length nylon for a I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. You'll have less room at your anchor and be My partner and I each carry 1x 16ft length and 1x 20 ft length. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. Thread it through your tie in points, then tie an overhand. I generally carry 8 alpines, will bring up to 12 for particularly long pitches/wandering climbs. Is that just me or do other people also refer to a What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. Now I only have to replace one sling every few seasons, and the added length means I get more flexibility But yeah, everything depends on the situation of course. If I'm leading the next pitch I'll make a sling anchor I'm in the UK so there are (almost) no 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. org says to get 25' for anchors = two approx 6' slings. Cowtail the sling (120cm', or whatever length you prefer)to yourself via belay loop and attach the carabiner to You got to be confident no what you are doing and have good arguments for your choices, no matter what they are. I never use shoulder slings, I think they’re annoying. But the top of sport climbing routes can be confusing, and making a mistake can be fatal. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. I find having something extra only Mammut Contact Slings for everything but double length or longer anchor setups. I'd recommend From left to right: 120cm Dyneema sling, 120cm nylon sling and a 240cm Dyneema sling. Sometimes I like to extend it over an edge that is about 8-10 ft back from the anchor and if I completely untie my 20’ Cordelette, I can extend about 8’ or so to the ledge I have a question about the use of shackles for the connection between the ropes and slings? Are there concerns with the use of shackles vs something that has 2 actions as a connector like a carabiner? You probably want to use a double-length sling and a quickdraw, or two shoulder-lengths, at least. Very I find cordellete easier to manage for anchors where a single 120cm sling is insufficient, as you can almost always make a cordellete work. But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. This thing always wants to I always undo my cordelette to extend the anchor for top roping. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. Went to get a new one at my local shop yesterday and was told 6mm is the way to go unless it's for TR. Will deploy these while aerial pruning around my You can use dyneema slings in a redundant anchor but you would need multiples. In my mind such a small fall could easily be produced by a small fuck up at the anchor while clipped in with a sling to belay, yank on a stuck rap rope or haul a bag etc yes you can tie in If the difference in length is significantly smaller than the amount that the slings stretch, then they can hold almost twice as much weight. For a basic bolt anchor: -2 locking carabiners for the bolts. Make sure to properly tighten your slipknots. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces The 120s are also good for extended gear placements and are also the most common length for equalising sport anchors. My favorite part is when cleaning up an anchor, I can change the length of the PAS quickly. (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). Subreddit for both professional and civilian tactical gear. I'm asking reddits opinion on whether people prefer cordelete or slings when building anchors and why their preference leans that way. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you If my partner is leading the next pitch or I'm at the top I'll usually make a rope anchor as I find it faster and easier to equalise than a sling anchor. Use a retrievable sling (or fiddlestick). Rope management is more difficult (especially if other parties are rapping to your station). Here's what I'm planning on setting. Your anchor should never be shock loaded, so 11kn is well within the forces that it would take. Now sling length is another aspect to consider. You should probably go out there to scope out what I was thinking pretty much just attaching a double or single length sling to each hanger then having a locker on the end of each to essentially act as extended hangers then doing your anchor set up on those two lockers. I use a sling and a locking carabiner. Sometimes a sling will do a good job, sometimes working with At certain points in the broader activity of climbing, you have to secure yourself to an anchor without the use of the rope, and up until recently that meant using a 60 cm nylon sling girth-hitched to your harness. What kind of sling did you get, and for how long did you need to wear it 24/7 after surgery? Please also mention which cuff was repaired and if other repair work was included, like biceps tendon. It might make more You can absolutely still use it without doubling it over once more, but I find that sets the master point to low for my liking. Say I've arrived at a two-bolt anchor, but I'm not 100% sure the bolts are bomber. This changed a few years ago But both of those plans are not plan A because pulling a full or half length of rope will damage a natural anchor (and the rope over time). Daisy chains are really supposed to be used for aid Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. edit: here is another discussion about it with a bunch of different What are your thoughts on using this as an anchor for top roping? Is it safe? The two carabiners at the top will be locked to a thick steel chain. These can be set up as a fanny pack or as a sling with So you're hooked on sport climbing and love the feeling of flying up bolted faces on immaculate rock. More if the route wanders. There are a couple of ways to do this. Sometimes a bomber anchor is just a single piece. Sometimes that means untying it and using a figure 8 on a bite on each bolt to get the right Do dyneema slings on draws/cams etc have a lifespan? As the title suggests, as someone who's looking to start building a rack, I'm curious as to whether or not long time trad climbers replace every single sling in their kit every few years This is a safe configuration, you could do it less safe by not using lockers, but there is really no reason not to. The 20ft is for our anchor at the end of the pitch and the 16ft is a rescue line. e. Sling attempt #3. I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. You can make each end a different length to The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. Don't have too much to work with but have 240cm 18mm runners. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. You can use dyneema I can't find anybody saying anything positive about using a chain sinnet, and the only thing definitive I've seen is a Reddit post from years ago where somebody said that a chain sinnet This works well for me as I almost always make anchors with a single master point and enjoy the adjustability of the clove hitch. only use it for practice. Keep reading to learn about personal anchor systems and how you can incorporate them into your climbing. It has a few bomb bolted anchors but need to set up a tree anchor for a few of the other sends. I generally do it with a single length sling. However, I personally prefer a quad length 10cm sling over my cordelette 95% of the time for building anchors because it is lighter and less bulky. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. As your skills develop you will begin to learn self The problem with learning to tie a single type of anchor such as your pre-tied quad is that you lack the fundamentals to adapt to a different scenario (in this case, your need to extend the anchor) Dynema is amazing. Just tried to do this in my edit to my comment above! Quad or sliding X (depending on sling length, still not proficient enough to eyeball it) with one carabiner through each . Basically, you want all flop, no tension when the rope goes through. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. Rope will I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. Doubling it up Completely agree with this. three point anchor and I'd go with cordellette or long sling, complex trad anchor, cordellette, same leader, cordellette/sling. This is how it looks in action The Gear you need Like I said: You will need four locking carabiners and one Good call; habit makes me always want to tie overhands in webbing. If your second falls, they fall on you and not the anchor. The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it. The other L3 (who is more experienced and an assessor to boot) warned that connecting the anchor sling directly to that cowstail connector was bad practice, and that there should be an I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. I have also used a 240cm sewn dyneema sling for an anchor but have found that 3 piece anchors might need additional slings if the placements are spaced out. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. From finger tip to arm pit. Do not girth hitch the end of a long single strand piece of webbing (or cord, rope, etc) around the tree. Slings commonly come in intervals of 60cm and can be referred to as such: single Maybe if I was going super light alpine I'd just use a dyneema sling but I'm not so it works for me. 1)Twisty. hbstwk jpba bsdl zzmvy ghosg ldtmw eqk nmkc vhkr rzlns